Research question:

How can a Yoruba traditional textile process be brought into the contemporary context?

Considering the long term future,the aim of this project is to propose how new processes and design can be incorporated into the production of a Traditional Yoruba cloth. The Adire Industry is lacking fresh new interpretations of an age old craft. As a designer, having Yoruba heritage, I want to explore the possibilities of this Fashion cloth,and push it's scope both in process and application.

In this project I aim to act as both designer and facillitator.As a designer I aim to create an Interior textile range,where in some areas, the craft skills of The adire designers are utilised.I also aim to use the locally produced cotton within the interior collection.

The design process informing the design: * Below, I am using the local organic cotton and translating the aesthetic of the tied cloth onto it.:

Why?

Adire textile Industries have been rendered uncompetitive by 3 main factors

*lack of innovation: Designs established in the 1960's are still being used to date.There has been little variation of the *base cloth.

Younger generations rejecting the trade: Adire is a generational craft.The system is not as strong as before.With out the guarantee of sales Nigerian youths of today can not with stand the level of persistant pursuit that is needed to create an Adire cloth.

The long textile process: It can up to 4 months to tie 3 and a half metres of cloth.Creating the Indigo dye is also a long process.

These factors in addition to the influx of imported cloths has resulted in the decline of traditional textile industries.

The production of Adire was once a thriving Industry that generated prosperity for many Yoruba women as well as making a substantial contribution to the social narrative beyond the communities in which the craft thrived. The enhancement of the craft will ensure that it becomes more competitive and in this way continue to fufil its declining social functions.

What is Adire?

Adire is a yoruba term used to label Indigo dyed cloths,where various techniques have been used to create the resist patterns on the cloth.Two main types are Adire eleko and Adire Oniko.

In Adire Eleko a starch paste is applied to the cloth free hand,in 1910 metal stencils were intoduced to speed up the Adire Eleko process.Adire Oniko is achieved by tying the cloths at intervals this can be done in several ways varying from a linear pattern to concentric cirles.

What is Adire's social function?'

Adire was known as the social cloth as each pattern has a story behind it,reflecting current social and political occurrences. It is an Inherited craft, kept alive by being passed down from generation to generation.Nigerian youths are however rejecting the craft due to the long process and the uncertainty of being able to sell the cloth.

'...[Adire] it is highly labour intensive and it requires a high level of persistent pursuit in order to sustain a modest family in a country where poverty is rising sharply.' Nike Okundaye

As a facillitator I aim to draw further attention to the skills of the Adire designers in a new market. I have carried out and will continue to carry out pattern and process workshops with the Adire designers in Ogidi Ijumu,Kogi state,(South-West Nigeria), in order to inspire new or faster processes for their work.

Surrounding area near the dye compound.Ogidi Ijumu,Nigeria.: